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Messages - Laverda Dave
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2626
« on: June 12, 2017, 07:56:53 PM »
Chrome Porn  I collected this little lot from the chromer today, fantastic job he made of everything. £98 all in. Before anyone says anything.... I choose to plate the kick-start and rear brake lever, I couldn't stand the rough finish of the originals. I took me a full day to file the kick-start shaft and knuckle smooth and blend the contours.
2627
« on: June 12, 2017, 07:49:46 PM »
At least he didn't clean the wiring loom in the dishwasher......
2628
« on: June 03, 2017, 10:48:05 AM »
Sitting on the train travelling up to Halifax to collect my new but S/H VFR800 I remember now what was wrong with my kickstart. It was the U shaped bit in the end of the shaft where it locates in the crankcase. When I assembled it and the spring etc all was fine, nice a tight and full spring tension. However after a couple of kicks on the lever all the spring tension had gone and the lever didn't return. After a lot of head scratching I compared the S/H shaft with the knackered original (the kickstart splines were non existing on the original shaft and I bought a S/H from the US. On the s/h shaft the U shaped spring was turning on the shaft thereby allowing the whole shaft to turn independent of the spring and losing all tension. When I compared the s/h shaft with the original I found the U piece was firmly held on the shaft and didn't turn on it. I swapped the S/H U piece with the the one from the original and hey presto problem solved!
Hope this helps Mike.
2629
« on: June 03, 2017, 08:01:46 AM »
I'm trying to think how I fixed mine Mike. The kick-start appeared to be fine when initially assembled but then went so slack after a couple of goes it just sat at the bottom of the stroke with no tension on the spring. I seem to remember the U shaped spring on the shaft itself had moved around on the shaft (it moves on the ratchet teeth). This in turn put the square type peg that pushes against the crankcases in the wrong position even though it looked and felt fine. It was only when I went to try it I felt it go really slack against the spring. Are you sure the spring didn't move around on the ratchet? The bright side is now you've slept on the problem overnight it will go straight back together today
2630
« on: June 02, 2017, 08:42:45 PM »
Not being funny here but you haven't put the spring on back to front have you? I had a similar problem with mine (after I had put the clutch cover back on!). I think it was because I had the flat on the shaft out by 180degrees. It took me three attempts to find it!
2631
« on: May 27, 2017, 10:17:34 PM »
Great photo & would be good to see some more prototypes. I remember seeing one in the past of the CX500, that did look odd!
2632
« on: May 15, 2017, 08:35:18 PM »
Lovely looking restoration. The coils are aftermarket and are a bit shorter then the originals, I had to make a spacer for mine to make them fit (see photo). The price asked is unlikely to get the seller his money back on what it cost in parts and services to restore , my own resto is up at 6k and my time is 'free'. I will post some photos of the completed bike as soon as I've managed to balance the carbs, they are proving to be a nightmare to tune properly 
2633
« on: May 14, 2017, 10:07:08 AM »
Hi. Degrease everything and make sure you remove any burrs on the bolts otherwise when you get them back from the plater they will look rough and rust where the plating rubs off the burrs as soon as you fit a spanner! The plater will remove the old zinc in the stripping bath before replating. Its all about the preparation, the less you do yourself the more it will cost you for the plater to do it.
Good luck.
2634
« on: April 26, 2017, 06:22:34 PM »
Welcome to the forum Ian. Both the Commando and the Honda are fantastic bikes. Keep us posted on the restoration.
2635
« on: April 22, 2017, 02:46:30 PM »
The bike is now in 100's of bits  . Just about to load it all up and take it to the aqua blaster at I Cleenz Machineez in Penge a quote. I'm going with stove enameling this time for the frame and other painted parts. All the nuts and bolts have been cleaned up and the burrs taken off before dropping off at the chrome/zinc platter. I have filled the rough passivated casting posing as a kick start lever, I have polished it and will have this chromed along with the rear brake pedal, I know its not stock but a grey rough casting really ruins the look of the black engine.  Piki, do you have the DID decals for the wheel rims in stock and the tank, mudguard and seat decals? I'm already thinking about the finishing touches 
2636
« on: April 04, 2017, 10:46:00 PM »
Welcome to SOHC, great place, great people, great advice. Oh and that's a great bike you have there  .
2637
« on: April 02, 2017, 10:21:20 AM »
I have these fitted to the 400/4, really nice quality. I'll be getting a set for the CB250RS when I get that far  The south of England TEC distributor attends the Kempton Park autojumbles and they are about a fiver cheaper. They are made in Australia.
2638
« on: March 31, 2017, 07:31:08 AM »
The cheap part suggested by Trigger is a godsend. Cheap, cheerful and does the job perfectly.
2639
« on: March 31, 2017, 07:28:37 AM »
It could be the autojumble route then Roy. At least Stafford is coming up (if you can handle the parking, crowds and prices!).
2640
« on: March 31, 2017, 07:25:03 AM »
Welcome to the greatest forum on the Internet. Have fun with the potential rebuild. Post a photo of the bike if you can, we like photos on here.
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