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Messages - Underdog1
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121
« on: June 30, 2018, 03:06:36 PM »
Had a problem with my tyres, was sent the wrong front tyre (for the second time!) but it had an incorrect sticker on it which stated the correct size but the tyre was different. Unfortunate as now I have to wait for it to be replaced to get the wheels on. Had the rear back and built it up but just seen the tyre is on backwards so have to get that changed too!  Going to look good though. Had a second rejection letter from the DVLA stating they needed a written letter stating why I didn’t have the import cert (which I had sent them) gave them a call and it turns out they also need proof of purchase. Annoying as instead of just emailing or calling you they wait 2 weeks then send the entire document pack along with the payment back to you and then take another two weeks to get back to you once you’ve returned it 
122
« on: June 30, 2018, 09:30:56 AM »
The black red, I think, goes down to one side of the headlamp fuse and the other too the LH switch. Have you got a lights ON/OFF on the RH switch.
This is one of the very few occasions when wires do not go colour to colour
Yeah I’ve got the on/off switch
123
« on: June 29, 2018, 11:21:06 PM »
Just to clarify - the electrics should work when the key is in ignition position 1 right? (Once click clockwise), bikendoesnt have to be running for headlight horn etc
yep, and some 750's have the switch gear earth to the handle bars.
Literally have just read up on this, haven’t drilled my bars yet so I’ve had the switch gear just dangling, probably explains why at least some of the stuff isn’t working. Had a look through the electrics section of hondamans books and all the info is in there, just need to wrap my head around it!
124
« on: June 29, 2018, 10:14:24 PM »
Just to clarify - the electrics should work when the key is in ignition position 1 right? (Once click clockwise), bikendoesnt have to be running for headlight horn etc
125
« on: June 29, 2018, 09:52:13 PM »
I think the black red should feed power to the dip switch on the LH switch as in the original configuration the starter button turns the lights off when the button is pushed and at the same time powers the starter solenoid which is also wired opposite to earlier bikes which ground the solenoid power feed to the bars
The black and red is from the right hand control (looks like starter button), no black and red wire in the loom for it to go to, but there is 2x brown and red wires which go down to the headlight 7a fuse. The other brown/red wire in the loom I’ve connected to the headlight dimmer switch. Still not getting much though!!
126
« on: June 29, 2018, 07:54:39 PM »
Having a few snags with the headlight bucket electrics, the bike is a K6, the harness is an aftermarket one from Z1 parts for a K3-K5 but came with a little jumper cable to ft the K6 (as it doesn’t have an on/off headlight switch as stock) BUT I have repro switch gears which DO have the on off switch so I’m basically wiring the same as a stock K3-5. I have an aftermarket speedo (with LED idiot lights) and an aftermarket tacho. Colours on the wires from these are all kinds of colours but I think I have hen figured out. Currently all that’s working is an oil pressure light and the backlights for the gauges. Don’t currently have brakes or indicators on the bike. Firstly is this right, it’s a teal/red wire which comes from the neutral switch, I’ve currently got it connected directly to the neutral light (other wire from neutral light has gone to black). Confusing as all the wiring diagrams show this wire as green/red not teal/red but looked at my old harness and that’s also teal/red  Secondly I’m not sure where this black red wire goes, as far as I’m aware it comes from the starter switch. I’ve connected it to the brown / red wire here (headlight circuit), as that’s as best as I can work out from online wiring diagrams! 
127
« on: June 28, 2018, 06:09:50 PM »
Photos for Phil (Underdog1) of how I made the seat
Nice one Julie! Had my seatpan powder coated recently, I’ve welded nuts on the seatpan rather than bolts but looks similar. Good to see how you fastened then cover down as that was what I was still trying to figure out  I’ve not drilled any large diameter holes in the bottom for air, going to try without at first as I think there might be enough air gaps between the rivers etc. Can always add at a later date with my bench drill if it doesn’t ‘reinflate’ very well
128
« on: June 28, 2018, 01:27:53 PM »
Just because it was in that location when you stripped it, does not mean it's the correct place. 40+ years of previous owners, any one of them could have fitted it incorrectly!
Yeah fair one, you able to confirm if that tab is on the right bolt (picture a few pics up)?
129
« on: June 28, 2018, 10:01:44 AM »
It's coming along, nice when you get it on to it's wheels as it feels more like a bike then.
Two posts back, did you resolve the cable routing near the sprocket? They should all go along that top edge up away from the sprocket, there's a small capture ledge inside the sprocket cover which would ordinarily keep them out of the way. The cables all come out of a gap at the top right hand corner in that photo. You'll see if you look at the cover casting.
Haven’t put the sprocket cover back on yet, just confused why the bendy cable tidy attached to one of the crank case bolts seems to be in the wrong place, but I have a picture of it’s location from when I stripped the bike down so it’s definitely gone back where it was
130
« on: June 28, 2018, 09:21:54 AM »
Called the bloke who is trying my wheels and fitting tyres, still hasn’t done it and he thinks he won’t have it done until next weekend. So that will be almost 3 weeks..
131
« on: June 26, 2018, 11:03:56 PM »
I’ve got engine street bike handlebars which have a 3.5inch rise, if you want to go lower then the sport bike ones are 2.5inch rise I think
132
« on: June 26, 2018, 10:09:10 PM »
Here’s all the SOHC four wiring diagrams http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb500/EDIT: sorry mate seems it’s US bike only on there!
133
« on: June 26, 2018, 08:37:55 AM »
With carbs off the bike undo the 8 counter sunk screws that hold the carb bodies together on that aluminium bracket, with them all separated you then undo the retaining ring on top, remove the slide then undo the small cross head screws inside the slide remove the throttle rod. The needle sits under this and will just drop out
134
« on: June 24, 2018, 09:43:34 PM »
What WILL give you problems though is using jubilee clips on the rubbers, giving rise to mysterious air leaks and erratic running. Always best to use the proper clips.
That’s a pod filter on the intake side
135
« on: June 24, 2018, 02:03:32 PM »
Yes - 26 mm from that notch to the float...
Sweet. I know the fuel air mix changes about 1% for each mm, but a few of my floats are a little bent and whilst I’ve bent them back and taken measurements from either side of the float on one or two there’s still a half mm difference can’t seem to get the perfectly true - is this anything to worry about?
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