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Messages - Waggles
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106
« on: February 01, 2013, 02:32:16 PM »
I agree with most here, frequent changes are, I think, the most important bit. I read a study once which measured oil viscosity fall ( as a sign the oil was 'wearing out' ) this was with 'ordinary' non synthetic oils, it found that most damage is done after 800 miles in a bike motor and put it down to the fact that the oil is shared with the gearbox. So the recommendation was to change the oil around 1,000 miles to 1,500. If you do that with Synthetic you will get through your bank balance quite quickly!
Synthetics may be better but they still get contaminated by blow by, condensation etc etc etc.
Couldn't help wondering why cars like the original Mini didn't have to change their oil every 1,500 miles as don't they share engine and gearbox oil just the same?
107
« on: January 23, 2013, 07:06:10 AM »
Think a pic might help, maybe you have something non-standard? Don't have a K2 myself but it doesn't sound right, there isn't a lot of space / clearance on my F1 ( which definitely does have standard bars ) but it doesn't touch. Is the master cylinder reservoir vertical? is a brake line too short and pulling the mastercylinder out of line?
108
« on: January 17, 2013, 07:35:14 AM »
For my F1 build I had to cobble together a set of carbs due to various problems with the originals. All I did was to ensure that all carbs slides were fully home when the throttle was shut ( measured the slide cutaway showing ) and that they all opened at the same time. That was enought to get it running ( roughly ) when I connected the balancer I found only 2 carbs registered!! so fair bit of tweekage then occurred! but it goes to show you can usually get it started even with the carbs a fair way out!
The more enterprising aongst us have attempted balancing using a vacuum cleaner! ( see thread 'Carb balancing - on the bench' ) up to you if you want to go that far but as long as the motor is timed OK and valve clearances set it should start.
109
« on: January 16, 2013, 07:14:31 AM »
Ummmmmmm, am I being dumb ( I usually am, beer soaked brain cells etc etc ) but if you put needle clip a groove LOWER, that RAISES the needle and allows more fuel in therefore richening mixture? Not that I think it will amount to a whole hill of beans. See how she runs and check plug colour, it won't be far out. If you have carbs apart you could richen it up now on the basis that that will not cause damage, just rough running etc, then lean out as necessary. I think the air in France is about the same as here ( it just sounds funny  ) so if Bitsa's is OK yours should be too
110
« on: January 11, 2013, 07:12:11 AM »
111
« on: January 10, 2013, 07:10:49 AM »
Looking good Andy. IMHO Cafe = rearsets + Clipons ( Or Ace bars min ) I hate to categorise like this as a bike should be a reflection of its owner ( thats why mine is boring, standard and overweight ) so go for what YOU want but in categories the standard bars look more 'Street Fighter' than cafe to my eyes. PS Standard bars will be more comfortable of course and delay the onset of 'Potato pickers back'
112
« on: January 09, 2013, 07:09:23 AM »
Agree with Pete. Dry plugs imply a fuel problem. If it coughs on one or two cylinders most likely to be a problem around the carbs, if its totally dead then has to be something that affects fuel to all cylinders so likely to be blocked line or fuel tap problem. Check as Pete says
113
« on: January 04, 2013, 07:12:09 AM »
My F1 is 'OK' although occasionally she sulks and goes past neutral leaving you to flick up and down a couple of times to get it, but thats the same as I remember when I had one new. Clutch drag is the most likely cause, I would be tempted to over adjust it temporarily just to see if it improves if not, it is likely to be a problem in the gearbox and as that it an engine out and strip I guess it depends on how bad it is.
Have heard of selector shafts causing 'sticky' shifting by being slightly worn or undersized, is it a high mileage motor?
114
« on: December 24, 2012, 07:14:01 AM »
Will have a scan around and see if I still have mine but Lester is correct in that the instructions are not exhaustive ( sorry  ) Basically the pipes are numbered and there was a diagram to show which pipe goes where in the header ( but they only fit one way ) The silencer mounting is just a couple of captive nuts / bolts. I found the system quite fiddly to fit when getting the pipes into the header far enough to clamp. I tried fitting one pipe at a time but that seemed to push everything out of line so the final pipe wouldn't fit. Finally I would advise against using the supplied 'trumpets' as they are very tight when trying to get them round the tight bend in the pipes nearest the head and can scratch the finish. Either use standard split shells like I did or you could fully ( or half ) split the supplied ones I guess. If you have no luck can take a piccy or two of my system if it helps
115
« on: December 24, 2012, 07:00:27 AM »
Us F1 owners found it diverting too
116
« on: December 21, 2012, 07:15:34 AM »
As you so rightly say, they are more prone to seizing than excess play so I'd say no, its not normal, mine certainly doesn't do that. It may have got through the MOT but I wouldn't be happy with it, the slopping around could cause damage.
Dunno the cost of new but I would replace arm and possibly spindle too ( it may look OK and the arm will wear first but it might be damaged ) a good second hand set shouldn't be too hard to find if cost is an issue
117
« on: December 21, 2012, 07:09:58 AM »
Really interesting and informative thread Pete, keep it coming! My vote would be to rechrome the originals. With the value of K0s and the weight given to originality I'd say its a no brainer. I got replacement ones for my bike and had to make up rubber grommet thingies to fit which don't look too good but then mine is 'only' an F1 so don't think it matters so much. All looking brilliant so far, perticularly like the ghostly floating gold thingies you fitted into the rev counter 
118
« on: December 18, 2012, 07:29:27 AM »
Interesting thread. I am certainly not in the 'it must be 100% original', and am not going to search out jap air to put in the tyres ( or run the original crap tyres come to that! ) As long as the zorst looks right I would be happy, I wouldn't want a 4 into 1 on an K1 for example. My F1 originally had a 4 into 1 so am 'happy' with the Motad, although it wasn't the easiest thing to fit. Wasn't a fan of the original silencer anyway but would fit a pattern one if it existed.
I must be in the minority here but I quite like the blueing! shows the bikes been ridden! although mine have only gone a slight yellow after a season ( probably coz I don't ride hard enough )
anyway reason for this post is I noticed in the Frost catalog a product that is advertised to remove exhaust blueing, anyone ( who hates the blueing ) tried this? wouldnt have thought it was possible but ......
119
« on: December 04, 2012, 07:11:38 AM »
+1 on the 'mine didn't have one when I had one new' I'm with Bryan, probably a dealers sticker. The only sticker I recall is the 'preserve nature always wear a helmet' one but thats on the filler cap
120
« on: December 04, 2012, 07:06:46 AM »
We can tell Pete by your signature line(s) Personally I am too attached to my F1 to sell it even if offered such a sum. Yes, of course I could get and rebuild another but would it be as good? would it mean so much not being the first? Depends on how much you need the cash though, you are unlikely to get another offer like that for quite a while!
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