400/4 build. Paused due to other commitments. But starting up again

[taysidedragon]

It works blue tooth to your phone or to your PC. I just use the phone app on the 400 and its really good. If I can work it, it cant be half bad.
Ted the keyless ignt is just a setting you can have but basically if your using the app and have it coded to the bike as part of the configuration set up, when within 1,2,3,4,5m of the bike you can walk up amd start it without a key and everything works as it should. What happens when your phone goes flat? Use the keythats in my pocket as I do.
You can do heaps with it. For example I go to the app and look at charging system, turn, say, the indocator on and it shows me exactly what Im drawing to make that work on the bike, what effect thats having on my battery, real time and a host of other gubbins. Handy for problem solving etc etc and looking for bad connections as the failing circuit is highlighted as flashing. You just set up via the brief book and in conjunction with the app it works great.

Bloody hell! Does it make you a coffee as well? If so, I'll have one. 👍

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The Bean Counter in me says buy a new loom if needed only costs £62.50 plus VAT from Elextrex World - my Lizard Brain says make life complicated and go for M unit solution.

[ComfySofa]

Hey all - work has been going on wiring the M-unit Laverdaroo has been a mountain of patience trying to explain the finer points of motorcycle wiring (and the Munit - which usually ends up with me displaying a screwed up face and then saying errrr.....

A few changes have happened....we tried to use the original switchgear but it was way too hard....so made the jump to Renthal bars and motogadget switch gear....after getting all that sorted out and getting the motogadget buttons working - the penny kinda dropped and a lot of what Laverdaroo had said fell into place so.....ive been getting through the wiring steadily....got indicators, lights, brake lights, ignition switch.... one of my questions is the headlight - is there an led replacement for the front bulb..? getting all the bulbs over to LEDs was on my checklist of subtle restomods.... pictures will follow soon...!

[Multiman]

You could have a chat with Paul Goff who should be able to sort you out.
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Once you know the bulb type that is fitted in your headlight you can search for a quality LED supplier as per Multiman's link or try https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

If you do not know the bulb type a phone call or an online  message enquiry should work.

E-bay cheaper versions often fail within days or you get the dreaded LED flicker syndrome.

I found this helpful when I wanted one for our Jeep. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_automotive_light_bulb_types

Sometimes bulb types are listed on headlamp lenzes or in handbooks.

[ComfySofa]

Spot on - thanks very much sir. Ill take a look now.

[Oddjob]

Have a read of this, with pics so you know what you're getting. The ones to get are linked.

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,25595.msg234557.html#msg234557

Oh and since I did that thread I have 2 friends who ride with me every Thursday down dark country lanes when Autumn arrives, they both have Harleys and were always complaining about not being able to see that well, it was so bad they'd sit behind me on my 1300 with that headlight bulb fitted just to be able to see, they bought a pair between them and the difference really was night and day, now they are confident and do the leading. They've since passed on the link to all the others at the bike meet and most have bought a pair.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

On a 400 the original bulb type looks to be a Type S2 - this defines the size of the bulb cap, pin offsets & contact layout so it fits your bulb holder - you have to watch out for taller bulbs that might not fit etc - you can then go for quartz or LED - as Ken states a lot of LED's are poor on the beam spread & cut off. It's an evolving market still imho for the retro market.

[ComfySofa]

Went to the site last night...shit - theyve got everything on there havent they! (it looks like theyve even got those tiny little dummy lights in LED's as well) - so assuming they fit ill definately be getting some of those...!

[ComfySofa]

Thought this deserved its own post.....i actually got it started last night...! the throttle is a bit sticky (so it ran away a couple of times) and the carb overflows are leaking fuel but.....it started and, i might add the engine feels (through the bars) as smooth as anything ive felt. So, first - my thanks to Bryan, top job sir, top job....thanks so much for rebuilding the boxes of schrapnel that i gave you... my old man's bike is alive again!

Coupled with the Munit which id say im about 70% through the connectivity part - still got the dummy lights to wire in (no idea how to do that yet) but Roo is helping me with that... and then a tidy up of the loom in general and then tape it all up and maybe separate sections of the loom so it can all be unplugged for working on it...

[ComfySofa]

Current state of the wiring....not too bad!

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Went to the site last night...shit - theyve got everything on there havent they! (it looks like theyve even got those tiny little dummy lights in LED's as well) - so assuming they fit ill definately be getting some of those...!

I fitted all LED bulbs on the instruments & panel lights. Choose the colours carefully and you get some great results. I had advice from a member but can't remember who. Green is good for Speedo & Rev counter.

[Matt_Harrington]

I also fitted LED bulbs to the instruments (low profile ones to match the old bulbs) BUT found them too directional / bright. Two coats of white nail polish on the top diffuses the light perfectly. (alas the Mrs didn't have any but the pound shop did!!)

[ComfySofa]

I totally forgot to take pics this morning (in the office now) do you have links to the bulbs you ordered?

[taysidedragon]

Current state of the wiring....not too bad!

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Getting there. I assume that the fat red lead coming out of the hole in the frame and down to the solenoid is temporary? Where it routes at the moment is where the rear tank rubber sits so it will get in the way of the tank fixing. It's normally a lot shorter and goes almost direct from starter motor to solenoid. If it is temporary, ignore everything wot I said!